Saturday, 5 March 2022

Dayride - Tyne and Wear circular ride - 27 miles.

This is a 27 mile ride taking in the mouths of the rivers Wear and Tyne and the North east coast linking them. 

It is almost all traffic free, and approximately two thirds of it is on signed NCN routes. However some of the paths, especially along the coast can get busy and congested when it's busy. There are options to use the road in those circumstances although I won't mention them. There is also a possibility to short cut the southwestern corner of the route which will shave two or three miles of the route, but it's not all traffic free. Below is a map of the route and if you have komoot, then you can find the route here
The route starts at the southern end of the Tyne cycling tunnels which are one of the best bits of dedicated UK cycling infrastructure. If you've never walked or cycled them then it's well worth a few minutes to explore them. There is plenty of parking at the tunnels if you're using the car to get to the start.
If you've never experienced the tunnels, it's well worth spending a few minutes to ride through and back as they are unique in the UK.



From the tunnels follow NCN14 south, which takes you down a wide cycleway which is actually on the top of the vehicle Tyne tunnel. If you want refreshments or other supplies then Jarrow town centre is just a few metres to your right. It has supermarkets and other food outlets as well as a cafes. There is a rather wonderful statue commemorating the famous Jarrow march of 1937 just outside of Morrisons with cycle parking right alongside it. 

The first part of the route follows a new Cycleway which runs parallel to the A19 and is mostly traffic free shared use paths with a couple of short on road sections though quiet 20mph residential roads to the crossing at the A194. At the time of writing it still hasn't been signed so it may be best using a map or relying on a navigation app. Once over the A194, follow Edinburgh road, Glasgow road, and then Perth ave to the footbridge over the A19. Known locally as the banana bridge due to its curved profile, it is ridable, but has tight corners. Once across, follow the cycleway to the left, cross Hedworth lane, recross the A19 and then continue to follow the Cycleway south.

When you get to the bottom end and meet the A184 keep an eye open for the swans which take up residence every summer at the pond beside the road.

Once over the A184 you continue to head south on a bridleway which is the trackbed for the old Pontop and South Tyne railway which started above Stanhope in the Durham Dales and carried coal to the docks on the river Tyne in South Shields. Most of the railway is now NCN 7 heading west.  Use the large NMU bridge to cross over the A19 and follow the A1290, again on the route of the old railway pass Nissan, which is on the old Sunderland airfield. An interesting diversion at this point is the North East transport museum and it's collection which includes a Vulcan bomber. From Nissan follow Washington road and then Cherry Blossom way. After crossing Nissan way at the toucan crossing follow Barmston lane and then cross the A1231 at the footbridge. 

Once over the footbridge you'll join NCN7 which is part of the famous coast to coast route from Whitehaven to Sunderland. When the road dips down to the river, you'll be at the location of the old Hylton ferry which has history going back to the 1300s and possibly back to Roman times. 

Head east and keep following the NCN7 signs towards Sunderland.
You'll next pass the wreaked hulk of the Cretehawser which was a concrete boat built on the Wear in 1919.

As you carry on along NCN 7 you'll pass under the Northern Spire bridge which was completed in 2019. 

 As you pass through the centre of the huge roundabout at the north end of the Queen Victoria bridge, possibly without realising as the only signs are the two underpasses, check out the underpasses themselves as one is beautiful Victorian dressed red stone and the modern one is ugly brutal concrete.

Shortly after the second underpass, you have an option to keep straight or take a right down to the riverside. That's the path this guide takes as it's much more interesting and quieter. 

Once on the riverside keep an eye on the ground as there are numerous cast plaques set in the path surface commemorating the areas mining history. Below is one showing the main seams from Wearmouth colliery.
There's also other bits of Industrial heritage including the remains of coal staithes used for loading ships with coal from wearmouth colliery the site of which is now Sunderland's football stadium. 
Further along the path you'll pass under a short stretch which is roofed to protect against falling rocks and then under the twin rail and road bridges into the city centre.
Tucked away sheltering between the bridges is this. 

No, it's not a Martian war machine from The War Of The World's, but it's named Second Sun and is part of a wider installation. As you head east to the sea keep your eyes peeled for smaller signs illustrating the distance between the planets and the sun.
Once under the bridges it all opens out nicely and there are a number of pieces of public art as you pass the University of Sunderland.

Once past the National Glass centre which has an excellent cafe and a bike workstation, there's a short gentle climb away from the river. Once you meet the road at the top, turn right and head down to Sunderland marina. Where there's more public art. There is an excellent blog here which highlights more pieces and some background.
Follow the route skirting the marina. You can the first road on the left and shortcut straight to the seafront. Whilst the run around the shoreline is interesting, it can become congested with sea anglers. Be careful and alert if you head that way.
There's plenty of places for refreshments along the Roker front. 
The official C2C finish point is on the right just past Fausto Coffee.

Continue past the pier and there's a cycleway which zigzags up a gentle gradient  to Roker terrace. Once at the top head north along the cycleway which continues all the way along the seafront to Sea Lane.
Here there is an excellent seafood cafe and delicatessen, and also a coffee and ice cream kiosk.

Opposite the car park, If it's a clear day though, pause and look behind you as you'll be able to see Teesside and the North Yorkshire Moors beyond. Then take the gravel path which follows the cliff edge for a while before turning to pickup some back streets through Whitburn before popping out and joining the main road. 

Follow the cycleway north passing Whitburn windmill on the left. You'll then pass Souter lighthouse. The adjacent country park can be pleasant for a short walk or cycle, and the lighthouse has another good cafe for refreshments. 
The large grassed area just to the north of the lighthouse used to be Marsden village until it was abandoned in the 1960s and demolished.
On the right are the Marsden lime kilns which are grade 1 listed. 

Continue to follow the Cycleway north. The large grassed area is known as The Leas and is owned and managed by the National Trust. If the weather if good you can see north to Blyth and even the Cheviots in the distance.

If you want to avoid roads, then at the New Crown roundabout, NCN1 crosses and continues through the park before heading west on a traffic free path to join NCN14 at the other side of the town centre. 

My recommendation unless it is extremely busy is to turn right and follow the road along the South Shields sea front past all the usual seaside attractions including amusement arcade, fair etc. Both of the sea front parks have been extensively and expensively brought back to their Victorian splendour over the last few years and are well worth a visit.

Follow the road north. Just where the car parks end, there's another piece of public art just near the beach. This is Conversation Piece and is several groups of cast figures in small groups. It's affectionately known locally as the Weebles
Head the road around to the right as it now hugs the riverside. At the foot of the climb take the right fork onto Wapping street.
At the end of the row of buildings, stop as this is Comical Corner. So called as there used to be a tricky bend in the river for captains to navigate and crowds used to gather to watch.
You'll then pass through some old shipyard areas which have been revitalised and turned into housing. To celebrate the maritime history of there area, there is another piece of public art in one of the old docks called Fleet.
The terminal for the Shields ferry is then on your right. 
Follow the ncn signs to use the paths to get up beside the BT building and then across the roundabout. NCN14 takes you around the the back of some stores to Crossgate before crossing Station road and picking up a traffic free path.

Once at Laygate, NCN14 follows a road to Tyne dock where you will see more art. This time  statue of Sarah Milligan, alongside Norman Fay who ran a long established local cycle shop for many years and a Roman centurion.
Follow NCN14 as it skirts along the boundary of the Tyne Dock facility along the A194 and then the A185 back towards Jarrow.
If you have time take a short detour when you reach Church Bank and visit St Paul's monastery, which used to be the residence of the Venerable Bede.

From the monastery, there's not far to go to get back to the starting point. My recommendation would be to cross the road after leaving the church grounds and follow the path opposite. Which will then bring you to this lovely and almost secret mosiac. 
Take the right hand path, and this will lead you back to pick up NCN14 beside the A19, and follow it north back to the starting point..
















 



Monday, 21 February 2022

the tyreglider

The tyre glider is a new product and is pitched as being revolutionary for changing cycle tyres. Shown below with an SD card adapter for scale
We all know some tyres are easy to remove and fit and some are absolute monsters. The tyreglider is designed to make that process a lot easier.

When removing the tyre it's basically a wide tyre lever with an easy to grasp handle. It's quite easy to use.
1. You get the removal part under the bead.
2. Grasp the tool and pivot it over the rim bringing the tyre bead with it.
3. Still grasping the tyreglider, you basically shove it around the circumference of the rim.

Below is a short clip showing the removal process


Refitting the tyre is a different process.
1. Clip the tool horizontally onto the rim with the pointy end in the direction you want to go.
2. With the bead of the tyre on top of the tyreglider, basically shove it with using the blunt end as a handle. The bead will just zip on.
3. If it's a tight tyre, then it will get harder as you meet resistance. Make sure the bead is as far into the rim well as it will go and shove. It is easier than trying to use one or two levers to get the bead over, and no chance of pinching the tube. The design of the tool allows you to give it a good push though.

There's a short video below showing how to fit a tyre using the Tyre glider

I've tried it with a couple of different tyres on a spare wheel I have.

The nutrak I tried was a doddle but I can just about manage to do that without tools, so not much of a challenge really 
The 20*1.35 Marathon Plus is notoriously tough though, but the Tyreglider made it a lot easier and quicker.
For me the the hardest part was getting the wider lever under the bead for removal.

Whilst this tool makes it easier, I reckon it will most help when you have gloved hands in the winter or possibly if you have reduced dexterity as for the most part you can use it just by grabbing it with the hand.

Whilst there are other tools to make tyre fitting easier, every one I know is larger and bulkier than the Tyreglider. I think it's verging on genius, and could be one of the best innovations I've seen in a long while.

It's definitely earned a place in my on road toolkit, although I haven't removed the tyre levers yet.

The only downside? That I didn't buy a second one for my home toolkit! 

Monday, 18 October 2021

Dynamo lighting. Why and how

A few years ago I wrote a post about dynamo lighting on a budget. A few things have changed, one of which is Brexit, which means that purchasing cheap ready build wheels and lights from Germany is largely no longer an options for people in the UK. So time for an updated post. 

Why run dynamo? what's wrong with battery lights

If you're someone who just nips out on a sunny afternoon, then this probably isn't for you. If you ride all year round and cycle for transport and commuting as well as longer rides then here goes.
  • Dynamo lights are always available, either at the flick of a switch or via a built in light sensor that switches them when the light levels drop. This is useful when heading through bridges, tunnels or even on a ride with lots of tree coverage
  • You don't need to remember to charge them or worry about batteries dying
  • They are bolted to the bike, so you don't have to take them off at end of your trip.
  • They generally have a more effective and focussed light spread than a lot of battery lights which just spray light everywhere.
  • On longer day rides with the right extras you can charge phones and battery packs
Oh and Dyno lights have a bit of trickery inside which keeps them on for a few minutes after you stop. This is so you still have light if waiting at a junction, and is known as a standlight.

That sounds great. How do I get it?

You need three things. A wheel with a dynamo hub, a front, light, a rear light and some cable to connect them.
For hubs there's 3 options.
  • Base Shimano hubs are cheap and reliable but a bit on the heavy side. £30-40 quid
  • SP are good, mid range and light. £75-£100
  • Son are high end but very well engineered. £250 or so.
Decathlon sometimes have basic ready built wheels. That can be a good option if there's any in stock, otherwise it will be a case of getting an online or local shop to build you a wheel or build it yourself
If you have a Brompton, then there is a dynamo lighting kit you can buy with all the bits.
I have a Shimano hub on one bike, and an SP PV-8 hub on the other. 

A SP PV-8 before building into a wheel


The same hub built into a wheel and on the bike

As for lights. Stick with Busch & Muller. It's the most widely available brand in the UK. Axa and Spanninga are also decent quality lights. Again Son Edelux are fantastic, but expensive.
Dynamo lights are usually measured in Lux which is better than lumens. 
Lumens is the amount of light a lamp produces, but just everywhere (like a house lightbulb). 
Lux though is the light output measured onto a square metre. Most dynamo lights are made to german SvTZO standards and have directed & focussed beams. It is the focussed area of the beam which is measured in Lux
<40 lux is good in urban and lit roads.
High as you can for unlit roads and paths. Mine is 80 lux and it's superb for riding along unlit roads and tracks. 
A basic front light will cost from about £25, and a 60-80 Lux will be around £50.
My front light is a B+M Cyo Senso

For rear lights, again you won't go wrong with Busch & Muller, Axa or Spanninga .
You can get lights to fit a rear rack, seatpost, or even mudguards and stays. £20 will get you a decent light.

My rear light. A Spanninga Elips
And it on the bike and illuminated

Putting it all together

It's very simple to put all this together and make it work. the front lights are pre-wired.
You'll need some 2 core speaker/auto cable & some 2.8mm male spade connectors (Halfords calls them audio connectors) and a crimping tool if you want to make your own wiring to the rear light, or you could buy a ready made cable with connectors. Crimpers & connectors are cheap though.
  1. Fit a rim tape (velox cloth is best) and tyre/tube to the wheel and fit to the bike.
  2. Fit the front light to the bike.
  3. The hub comes with a plug in connector remove it & push the wires in from the front light into it and plug into the hub.
  4. Spin the wheel & turn on the light and bingo!
  5. Measure a length of cable, and crimp male spade connectors to each core at each end ( 4 in total)
  6. Connect the cable to the short tails on the front light, and to the rear light, carefully making sure you keep the polarity (+ to +. - to - )
  7. Spin the front wheel, and both the front and back light should light. If the rear doesn't, then carefully check to make sure you haven't crossed the connections.
  8. Once it's working fit the rear light to the bike, and secure the cable with cable ties. Electrical insulating tape will do a fine job of weatherproofing the connections.

This is a really comprehensive guide to dyno lights with shots of the lights in action


Sunday, 7 February 2021

Review: Teentok rear cycle camera and light

I'm a big advocate for onboard cycle cameras. They're useful in capturing unusual sights as well as being useful evidence in the unpleasant event of a collision. 

They can also be used to "grass" up poor and dangerous drivers if your force acts on submissions. Drivers take notice of fixed penalties and fines. They'll have to declare any on insurance for 4 to 5 years and will likely incur an extra premium as a reminder. 

I've used a £40 Aldi rear light and camera combo (a gen 1 fly 6 clone) for over three years. It is only 720p resolution and can be a bit grainy, so I replaced it with a Teentok from eBay although Amazon have them too. If you're careful you can get them for about £110 currently.
It comes with a basic mount and a usb cable (not shown). It has a decent sized camera lens above 5 very bright red leds
On the left hand edge from the top there is a mic hole. Power button, light mode button, and a photo button. You can also see the go too mount moulding on the rear.
Right side has the microsd (not supplied) slot and a micro USB socket hidden under a snug fitting rubber flap
the supplied mount will fit a seatpost or other thick tube but is a little basic. On my bike the rackpack obscures a fair bit of the image so I purchased a saddle rail mount for a fiver from eBay. At 26g it's less than half the weight of the supplied mount 
Once fitted the camera nestles snuggly under the saddle. The fixing seem to be stainless steel. I'd recommend using unlock nuts and or threadlock. From a security perspective, it's an improvement over the Aldi cam which was secured.using a velcro strap. 
Operation is pretty straightforward. 

Press the power button to turn on. The camera will bleep twice and LEDs start flashing. Recording starts automatically and the unit will bleep a third time when it starts, but unlike the Aldi (which has a circulating led) there's no dedicated indicator.

Press the middle button to change led mode. If LEDs are off then the middle led will briefly flash every 3 minutes as a reminder that unit is on and recording.

Press and hold the bottom button to turn on the wireless network. The unit will bleep twice when it starts You can then connect computer to the camera to view and download videos and change settings. One nice touch is that you can change the ssid and the passphrase for the wireless network rather than it being hard coded into the camera.

I bought the camera at the end of January and at the time of writing hadn't had chance for more than a few short local trips, but I have done some run time testing
1. Runtime with steady light - 4 hrs
2. Runtime with no light - 6 hours 45
3. Charge time from flat - 3 hours

Sample video below

The app is called Ricam and is installable from the play store.
It's a little tough around the edges but it does work. Once connected to the camera's wireless network, set the app and click the big button on screen to connect to it.
Once connected there is a battery indicator and the usual settings gear for cog. Theres only one page. Date and time are synced from the app host 
you can also manage and download video and photos from the camera
I found that the camera was locking files so they could not be overwritten automatically. This seemed to be the collision detection being over sensitive. A quick email with the support contact included with camera and I received a new firmware file within 24 hours which has resolved the issue.

Since installing the updated firmware the app will occasionally report that the camera is not authorised. The only solution is to powecycle the camera whilst clearing the app data within Android. The app will also occasionally report that the camera is busy. The short term fix is to exit and reconnect.

Verdict
This camera seems to be good value for money and works well considering you can get one for nearly half the price of a Fly6.
It's neater than a lot of the go pro clones hand has a light built in.  If you don't want the light, then I'd recommend a Drift Ghost X for an extra £15 or so which has similar runtime and a more polished app. 

The app has a rough unfinished feel and some bugs, but I'll probably only use it occasionally for managing settings as if extracting video for submission, I'll copy to my file server for safe keeping. 


Saturday, 9 January 2021

Make a difference in 2021

It's 2021, and we are once again forced into lockdown because of the pandemic and have to stay close to home. 

We should all make the most of this by exploring our local areas and doing what we can to make a difference in 2021.

Three easy and simple ways we can make a difference are

  1. Report problems
  2. Upload photos to online mapping sites
  3. Update those online maps ourselves

1. Report problems.

When you venture out on your rides, keep an eye out for things like potholes, fly tipping. even overhanging bushes or incorrect or damaged signage, and report to local authority using fixmystreet.com

Fix my street allows you to easily take a photo and make a report online to the council. It is available as an app for your phone. You can even use it to see other issues reported.

It uses your location to know which authority to email, and take no time at all to do so. I've had responses back even on a weekend. I've used it to get;

  • Abandoned vehicles moved
  • Bushes cut back
  • Glass swept up
  • flytipping tackled

2. Upload photos to mapping sites


We're all now used to Google Streetview and Satellite mapping which can be great resources for route planning, but for most of us they, especially streetview are very road/vehicle oriented. 
As we all know cycle routes in UK vary enormously in quality and sometimes even have better, less obvious alternatives. 
cyclestreets.net has a very neat feature called photomap where you can upload photos and tag them which then appear on the map, and help others. You can give meaningful descriptions and some of the uses could be:
  • Highlight busy junctions or crossings
  • Signage and route guidance
  • Path surface quality
  • Cycle parking.
Again like Fixmystreet, there's an app which lets you browse and view as well as upload.
If you use the excellent routing and navigation from cyclestreets to plan a route, then in the desktop web browser, it inserts photos on the route into the directions.

3. Update those online maps ourselves

A lot of cycling sites which include mapping use OpenStreetMap as the base map. These include Cyclestreets, Komoot, Strava to name just 3 popular ones.
It is possible to edit those maps and add in new links as they are built.
Or add or correct existing links where maybe a path doesn't connect to the adjacent road which messes the navigation.
Enhance the data, by adding things like the surface type, path width and if it's lit or not. Certainly Cyclestreets can use that information to create better and safer routes to follow.

It's very easy to do. all you need is a web browser and to sign up to OpenStreetMap.
Cyclestreets produced a really great howto which is here



Thursday, 6 August 2020

My Cycle Camera - The Drift Ghost X/XL

It's slightly sad that we are at the point where having a camera whilst cycling is recommended.
I personally think a camera is valuable for the following reasons, but of course it's a personal choice.
  • If a driver hits you whilst you, or performs other dangerous manouveres such as passing closely or attempting to overtake whilst turning (Left hooking), then you have the video as a record for evidence purposes and can report to the local force. It can often be hard getting any action without witness or video as it's all too often the case that the stories differ.
  • Equally when riding on traffic free paths I have had close encounters with dogs and owners. Again if anything such as a collision occurs you have the video as evidence. Vet bills can be high and we are now in a shameless sue first culture sadly
  • It may be useful to record sections of the trip as part of a video blog.
  • Also a video can be useful to capture stills for reporting things like fly tipping and other issues
Really cheap action cameras are often poor to control, have a short battery life and quality can be variable. I tried the cheap bullet cams, the go-pro clones and gave up, and in the end I bought a Drift Innovations Ghost X. Why?
  • Good battery life of 5 hours+ which is replaceable with a long life module for 8 hours
  • Full high res 1080P recording which is very good for picking out details
  • Can connect to a phone app for setup, video review and even live streaming
  • Stealthy rugged design which feels very robust
  • At about £130 it was by far the best bang for the money

They have now released the Ghost XL which has a 9 hour battery life, much improved waterproofing and an optional remote control for an extra 20 quid. the XL would my choice now.

Mounting the camera

The Drift has a standard tripod socket on the underside and has a QR bracket that clips into one of 2 self adhesive quick release mounts supplied. One with a flat base and one slightly curved for a motorbike or cycle helmet). You can buy additional mounting adaptors to fit Go-pro mounts, handlebar mounts.

I went a bit Heath-Robinson and stuck the mount to a flat piece of plastic which is then cable tied to stem and handlebars which actually works well. 

In case the camera ever falls off, I have attached a thin steel lanyard to the QR bracket screwed to the camera and have a small carabiner clip which attaches to a brake cable or similar

Basic setup

The Drift has three big rubber buttons on one side (which are easy to use even with winter gloves)
  • Power <| turns camera on and off, and is also record/shutter button
  • Left/Right - Menu navigation
  • Wifi |> - Sets wifi on or off (long press) and cycles between the camera modes below 

On the other side are rubber flaps covering the microSD slot and the mini-USB which is for charging and data. The box also contains a mini-USB to 3.5mm jack adaptor for connecting an external microphone

there are 3 main modes for the camera which are cycled through using the Wifi button and they are as below:
  • Green        Video mode
  • Yellow       Photo
  • Purple        Timelapse
  • Light blue  Photoburst
  • Dark Blue  Settings 

Recording modes

  • Dashcam where it records in segments of a few minutes and just loops, overwriting oldest files
  • Manual, where once you record it runs until you stop, power off or the card fills.
  • Instant On where it starts to record as soon you power it on until you stop, power off or the card fills.
  • Tagged where it continuously records, but only saves a 1 minute segment when you press the play button which is 30 seconds either side.
  • App control, so you can control and view the live video on a smartphone via the Drift Life app.
The camera also has a nifty clone mode. If you have multiple cameras you can connect them together so the settings are synced and you can control from the master camera. This would be useful if you had front and rear Ghost cameras for example

Settings

My settings are shown below, and although you can use the menu and buttons on the camera it is much easier to use the app. Using the app also synchronizes the camera's time with the phone
To use the app with the camera -
  1. First power the camera on. 
  2. Once it's on hold the rear button in for a few seconds until the rear indicator turns to flashing and then a steady green. 
  3. On the phone or tablet, connect to the camera's wireless (network name will start with DRIFT-).
  4. Open the app and click "Connect to Camera"

Using the camera

As I have my camera setup in Dashcam mode, using the thing is as easy as:
  • Hold the power button until it beeps
  • After a few moments, press the power button briefly and it will beep. the indicator flashes red and the rear screen turns to red and it's now recording
  • To power off, hold the power button until camera shuts down

Getting video files

There are several methods to transfer video files.
  • Use the app and copy video files to the local device
  • Connect the camera via USB to a computer. This will mount the camera as a drive and you can find and copy the files across
  • Remove the SD card (with camera powered off), and insert into a computer

Saturday, 13 October 2018

Cycling cape - a forgotten wonder or best forgotten?

I've never been a fan of waterproof coats when it's raining. Apart from the old goretex coat I used to wear, they always end up being a sauna suit for me.

It's with this in mind that I decided to splash out on a carradice duxback cape at the end of the summer, and I finally wore it in the rain.

Aesthetics

Like all things I've owned from carradice, it has a very well made and quality feel. It's a waxed cotton fabric and has a built in hood and a chunky brass zip and press stud for the neck opening. It's a dark green with a reflective strip along the small of the back.

Inside it has a waist cloth tie. To be honest this really needs to have one of those click buckles so you can pre adjust and then just click close rather than faffing about tying the ends together.
There's also a couple of loops to pop your hands through. These work and are functional

The cape has a very barbour-esque look and feel overall. I was slightly disappointed that unlike my cotton duck bag it doesn't have a tag with the name of the person who made it.

Just riding along

So I rode in it for the first time following storm Callum and the weather was patchy with varying rain and a brisk wind of about 17-19mph. Temp was about 16-18°c.

It kept me dry, which should be a given, but i didn't sweat like a sweaty thing.
There was a nice cool breeze coming from under the cape and circulating around. As it's waxed cotton where it was touching my bare arms it felt ok and didn't have that cold clammy feel you get from plastic or even a waterproof jacket. I also didn't overheat like I would have done in a jacket. The legs also stayed dry.

It was only a short (8 mile) circular ride but it didn't feel like the cape was acting as a serious windbreak although as it gives me the same aerodynamic profile of a canvas tent there obviously is some drag. The weight of the  cotton meant it hardly flapped though.

It's probably not a thing for city centre riding, or for quick hops to the shops, with lots of indications needed. You'd probably look a little odd walking around the local supermarket wearing it though.

For longer stretches of just pedalling along like my commute though its fine. It's also more of a touring thing than for head down out and out speed.